] On p.186, AV says: "Evidently, Elizabeth Shackleton's pride in wearing clothes appropriate to her companions, environment and occasion went beyond a simple desire to impress."

] So Elizabeth Shackleton's concern with appropriate dress strikes me as not just a matter of what was best for a particular situation, but also as a kind of test of belonging to her particular group, a bit like a secret password!

] Just some random thoughts!

Yes! I've been exploring the Jane Austen magazine site. Basic ladies'clothing items appear to have been worn both for reasons of class and practicality.There was a fad for Oriental fashion-turbans,exotic jewellery and shawls.The shawl became a clothing staple for genteel ladies at home or in public. The best shawls were silk or cashmere.At this time the paisley became popular. (English manufacturers produced cheaper shawls in wool and cotton)Thus,shawls were plainer and useful at home or appropriately stylish in public as the wearer prefered and could afford. To end with Jane Austen: "Fanny, William must not forget my shawl if he goes to the East Indies;and I shall give him a commission...I wish he may go to the East Indies,that I may have my shawl" Lady Bertram. Mansfield Park. I think this passage demonstates how an item of clothing we regard as common, was rather coveted by the gentry of J.A's day.