Good observations and examples about clothing and belonging to certain restrictive groups, Line.

] but also as a kind of test of belonging to her particular group, a bit like a secret password!

Elizabeth Shackleton certainly observed the distinction of rank and expectation when it came to apparel. What did you think of Ellen Weeton (later Stock)? "Although drawing puritanical satisfaction from her sartorial nonconformity..." I came away with the notion that Ellen Weeton made the best of her poverty by turning the tables and defying society to comment on her "neat, plain style of dress."